All Chef Must Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.